Everything is being put to it's purpose. I'm flat broke, but I'm at the beach with a used board, used wetsuit set up, the Bitchhiker, and Biggie - who needs new brakes after this trip. I got wet today, taking a long surf lunch and hiking down to Short Sands for some small wave action. Just my jam. I can't tell you how good it feels to be using my own board. Even if it has two left fins - true story. It hardly affects my efficacy in the water. A nine foot board and a solid center fin, yes, but I'm so new to surfing the slight advantage in having the right fins won't matter much other than feeling like a dufus when I pull out my gear.
It's been two days of hiking, biking, and surfing. Of everything doing what it's supposed to. Of pulling into a camping ground and going inside of the front door of my house, now on the beach. Pretty incredible really, to finally realize a dream months in coming.
I might try to convince myself it's been 9 months since I bought the Bitchhiker and started the journey to this first conclusion, but the truth of it is that it's been a decade. 10 years ago, on my 28th birthday, I gave myself the best gift I could: The promise that I would do the thing that scared me. If I felt fear, a given state since I started having panic attacks at 24, I should pursue that thing. That promise has so far altered my adult life to the point that it is absolutely unrecognizable to that 28 year old self. I had no idea it could have been this amazing, this full, this freaking hard, and as good as it was today.
